How to get rid of blackheads, and how to tell them from sebaceous filaments

Key takeaways

• Blackheads are open, clogged pores filled with oil and dead skin. The dark color isn’t dirt, so scrubbing won’t fix them.

• Many of the tiny gray dots on your nose aren’t blackheads. They’re sebaceous filaments, a normal part of skin that refills within about 30 days.

• The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) recommends a retinoid, like over-the-counter adapalene, to unclog pores, and salicylic acid can help too.

• Squeezing, harsh scrubs and pore strips can irritate skin and make things worse.

• Give a new routine six to eight weeks. If blackheads don’t budge, a dermatologist can extract them or prescribe something stronger.

What are blackheads?

Blackheads are a type of acne. Cleveland Clinic calls them “open comedones,” bumps that “fill with excess oil and dead skin” but stay open at the surface. Whiteheads are the closed version.

The AAD stresses that “the black dots aren’t dirt, so resist scrubbing. It will only worsen your acne.” Sources differ on exactly why they look dark. Cleveland Clinic points to the way light reflects off the clogged follicle, while Mayo Clinic says the oil in the pore turns brown when it’s exposed to air. Either way, washing harder won’t remove the color.

Cleveland Clinic lists several things that contribute: extra oil production, abnormal formation of keratin, hormones called androgens, and acne-causing bacteria.

Blackheads vs sebaceous filaments

Sebaceous filaments are the reason many people think they have far more blackheads than they do. They’re tiny, normal collections of oil and dead skin that line the pores, especially on the nose. Cleveland Clinic says “every person has sebaceous filaments” and that they’re “a normal, healthy element of your skin.”

Here’s how to tell them apart:

• Color and shape. Cleveland Clinic says sebaceous filaments are usually smaller, flat and lighter, typically gray, light brown or yellow. Blackheads are darker and can be slightly raised.

• What’s inside. In a blackhead, a plug of oil sits at the surface and blocks the pore. Sebaceous filaments don’t have plugs, so oil still flows to the surface.

• Where they are. Sebaceous filaments are most noticeable on the nose, forehead, chin and cheeks. Blackheads often show up in those same spots, especially the nose and chin, but they can also appear on the neck, back and chest.

• Whether they come back. Sebaceous filaments refill. A 1976 study of sebaceous filaments found a follicle refills “within 30 days” after the filament is squeezed out.

You can’t get rid of sebaceous filaments, but Cleveland Clinic says you can make them look smaller. The same ingredients that help blackheads, like retinoids and salicylic acid, can help with that too.

How to get rid of blackheads

• Use a retinoid. The AAD says, “To unclog pores, dermatologists recommend using a retinoid. You can buy one retinoid, adapalene, without a prescription.” Start slowly, since retinoids can dry skin. Our guide to retinal vs retinol explains how the different forms compare.

• Try salicylic acid. The AAD says salicylic acid “opens clogged pores and exfoliates the skin.” Mayo Clinic notes the studies on its effectiveness are limited. Our guide to AHA vs BHA explains why this oil-soluble acid can reach into pores.

• Add a benzoyl peroxide wash. The AAD suggests pairing a retinoid with a benzoyl peroxide wash. Our list of face washes for acne covers salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide options.

• Wash gently. Cleveland Clinic suggests washing your face daily with warm water and a mild cleanser, and removing makeup every night.

• Choose non-comedogenic products. Cleveland Clinic and Mayo Clinic both suggest products labeled non-comedogenic, which are less likely to cause acne.

What to avoid

• Squeezing. Cleveland Clinic warns you may “push the blackhead further into your skin, which can cause painful irritation,” and the AAD says squeezing out a blackhead can delay clearing.

• Harsh scrubs. The AAD says scrubbing can irritate acne-prone skin and make acne worse, and Mayo Clinic advises against facial scrubs, astringents and masks for the same reason.

• Pore strips. Cleveland Clinic notes pore strips can pull out sebaceous filaments along with blackheads, and that doing so can dry out skin. The filaments refill within weeks anyway.

How long does it take to clear blackheads?

Longer than most people hope. The AAD says that if a treatment works, you should notice some improvement in four to six weeks, and it can take two to three months or longer to see clearing. With adapalene, Mayo Clinic suggests starting three times a week and building up to daily, and reminds that retinoids make skin more sensitive to the sun. Our guide to mineral vs chemical sunscreen covers daily options.

Some people notice more breakouts in the first few weeks of using a retinoid. Our guide to skin purging explains what’s normal.

When to see a dermatologist

The AAD suggests giving treatment six to eight weeks. If blackheads are still there, a dermatologist can help. The AAD says that when a dermatologist does it, extraction “is a safe way to get rid of blackheads and whiteheads,” though it takes time, can be expensive and blackheads can return. A dermatologist can also prescribe stronger retinoids or other acne treatments. Cleveland Clinic advises having deep blackheads removed by a medical professional.

Frequently asked questions

Do blackheads go away on their own?

Sometimes. Cleveland Clinic says blackheads close to the surface are more likely to clear on their own, while deep ones usually aren’t. A retinoid or salicylic acid used consistently for a couple of months can help clear them.

Can you remove blackheads at home?

You can help clear them at home with a retinoid like adapalene, salicylic acid and gentle cleansing. Squeezing them yourself can irritate skin and push the clog deeper, so leave extractions to a dermatologist.

Should I squeeze sebaceous filaments?

It’s not worth it. They’re a normal part of your skin, and they refill within about 30 days. Squeezing can irritate the skin around them.

Are blackheads dirt?

No. The AAD says the black dots aren’t dirt, which is why scrubbing doesn’t help and can make acne worse.

Do pore strips work?

They can pull out some of what’s in the pore, but Cleveland Clinic notes they also remove sebaceous filaments, which refill quickly, and can dry out your skin. Our guide to minimizing the look of pores covers longer-lasting options.