How often should you exfoliate your face?

Key takeaways

• There’s no single right number. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) says it depends on your skin type and method, and that the more aggressive the exfoliation, the less often you need it.

• Once or twice a week is a sensible place to start. Gentler products can be used more often once you know your skin tolerates them.

• Dry, sensitive and acne-prone skin usually does better with a mild chemical exfoliant. Oily, thicker skin can often handle stronger acids or a scrub.

• Redness, stinging and flaking are signs you’re exfoliating too much. Stop until your skin settles.

• Acids can make skin more sensitive to the sun, so wear sunscreen every day while you use them.

What is exfoliation?

Exfoliation removes dead skin cells from the outer layer of your skin. There are two main ways to do it, and here’s how the AAD describes both:

• Physical (mechanical) exfoliation uses a tool, such as a brush, pad or sponge, or a scrub to physically remove dead skin cells.

• Chemical exfoliation uses acids to dissolve dead skin cells.

The AAD also warns that exfoliating is “not for everyone. If not done properly, it could do more harm than good.”

The main types of chemical exfoliants

• AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) like glycolic and lactic acid are water-soluble and work on the surface of the skin. Cleveland Clinic calls lactic acid “one of the gentler AHAs,” which makes it a good choice for sensitive skin.

• BHAs (beta hydroxy acids), mainly salicylic acid, are oil-soluble. Cleveland Clinic explains that they penetrate deeper into pores than AHAs and help dissolve oil, which is why they’re popular for oily and acne-prone skin.

• PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) like gluconolactone are a newer generation of AHAs. A review in Cutis found they give similar effects to AHAs without the same stinging, and described them as compatible with clinically sensitive skin, including rosacea.

The FDA notes that how strongly an AHA exfoliates depends on its type, its concentration, the product’s pH and the other ingredients. For glycolic and lactic acid, it cites the cosmetic industry’s safety panel, which concluded they’re safe at 10% or less, in products with a pH of 3.5 or higher that also protect against sun sensitivity or tell you to use daily sun protection.

How often should you exfoliate?

The AAD’s rule of thumb is that “how often you exfoliate depends on your skin type and exfoliation method,” and “the more aggressive the exfoliation, the less often it needs to be done.” It doesn’t give a weekly number. Here’s how that plays out:

• Dry or sensitive skin. The AAD suggests a washcloth and a mild chemical exfoliant. Start once a week with a gentle acid like lactic acid or a PHA, and only add more if your skin stays comfortable.

• Acne-prone skin. The AAD also puts acne-prone skin in the mild-chemical-exfoliant group. A salicylic acid product is a common choice. Cleveland Clinic physician assistant Samantha Stein says salicylic acid isn’t overly irritating for most people and can be used twice a day by most people. If your skin is easily irritated, start slower.

• Oily or thicker skin. The AAD says oily, thicker skin may do well with stronger chemical treatments or mechanical exfoliation. You may be able to exfoliate a few times a week, but let your skin guide you.

• Starting a strong AHA. For glycolic acid, Stein suggests starting “just once or twice a week at night.”

Gentler products, like low-strength PHA toners or acid cleansers that rinse off, can sometimes be used more often. Stronger peels and scrubs sit at the other end and need more time between uses.

Who should be careful with exfoliation

• Rosacea. The AAD’s advice for rosacea is to avoid rubbing and scrubbing, and “if you exfoliate your skin, stop.”

• Retinoid users. The AAD notes that exfoliating while you use prescription retinoids, retinol or benzoyl peroxide “may worsen dry skin or even cause acne breakouts.” If you’re starting one, our list of retinol products for beginners explains how to ease in.

• Deeper skin tones. The AAD advises avoiding strong chemical or mechanical exfoliation if you have a darker skin tone or tend to get dark spots after burns, bug bites or breakouts, because aggressive exfoliation can lead to more pigmentation.

• Broken or sunburned skin. The AAD says never to exfoliate if you have open cuts or wounds, or if your skin is sunburned.

Signs you’re exfoliating too much

The AAD warns that over-exfoliating can leave skin “red and irritated.” Cleveland Clinic lists over-exfoliating and scrubbing among the common causes of a damaged skin barrier, and lists signs of one that include:

• Dry, scaly or flaky skin.

• Inflammation and irritation.

• Stinging, especially when you apply your usual products.

• Tenderness or sensitivity.

If you notice these, stop exfoliating and keep your routine simple until your skin calms down. Our guide to repairing a damaged skin barrier walks through what to do.

How to exfoliate safely

• Be gentle. For a scrub, the AAD suggests small, circular motions for about 30 seconds, then rinsing with lukewarm, not hot, water. With a brush or sponge, use short, light strokes.

• Moisturize right after. The AAD recommends applying moisturizer immediately after exfoliating.

• Patch test first. The FDA suggests testing a BHA product on a small area before using it more widely.

• Don’t stack exfoliants. Pick one exfoliating product and give your skin time to adjust before adding anything else. Our guide to skincare routine order shows where treatments fit.

• Wear sunscreen every day. The FDA’s recommended label warning says AHAs “may increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun and particularly the possibility of sunburn,” and recommends sun protection while you use them and for a week afterward. In FDA studies, four weeks of AHA use increased sensitivity to UV-induced skin reddening by 18%.

Frequently asked questions

How often do dermatologists recommend exfoliating?

The AAD doesn’t give a fixed number. It says frequency depends on your skin type and the method you use, and that stronger exfoliation needs to be done less often. Once or twice a week is a sensible place to start.

Is exfoliating 3 times a week too much?

Not necessarily. The AAD says oily, thicker skin may do well with stronger exfoliation, so a few times a week with a gentle product may be fine. If you notice redness, stinging or flaking, cut back.

Is it better to exfoliate dry or wet skin?

It depends on the product. Scrubs and cleansers go on damp skin and get rinsed off, while leave-on acid toners and serums usually go on clean, dry skin. Follow the directions on the product.

Can you exfoliate every day?

Some very gentle products, like mild acid cleansers or low-strength PHAs, are designed for frequent use. For most people, daily scrubbing or strong acids are too much, especially if your skin is dry or sensitive.

Should you exfoliate in the morning or at night?

Many people exfoliate at night, especially with acids, and Cleveland Clinic suggests using glycolic acid at night when you’re starting out. Whenever you do it, wear sunscreen the next day.