What does toner do, and do you need one?

Key takeaways

• Toner is a water-based liquid you apply after cleansing and before moisturizer. Modern toners mostly hydrate, soothe or gently exfoliate, unlike the harsh, alcohol-heavy astringents of the past.

• You don’t need one. Cleveland Clinic lists toner as an optional step, and a basic routine of cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen covers the essentials.

• The “toner balances your pH” claim is overstated. Skin tends to return to its natural, slightly acidic pH on its own within several hours of washing.

• If you have acne or rosacea, the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) advises avoiding astringents and toners, which can dry and irritate skin.

• If you do use an exfoliating toner with AHAs or BHAs, wear sunscreen daily, because these acids can make skin more sensitive to the sun.

What is toner?

Toner is a thin, usually water-based liquid that goes on after cleansing. Cleveland Clinic describes it as “a water-based lotion or tonic that you use after cleansing and before moisturizing.”

Toner didn’t always mean something gentle. Cleveland Clinic explains that old-school toners “had high alcohol content designed to remove oil on the skin and were often drying and irritating,” while modern ones are “much more moisturizing and soothing.” Products still sold to strip oil are usually called astringents, which Cleveland Clinic notes “are usually alcohol-based” and “can be harsh and dry out your skin.”

What does toner do?

It depends on what’s in it. Today’s toners fall into a few broad groups:

• Hydrating toners add a light layer of water-binding ingredients like hyaluronic acid or glycerin before your serum and moisturizer.

• Exfoliating toners contain alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic or lactic acid, or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid, to loosen dead skin cells. Cleveland Clinic suggests these for acne-prone skin.

• Soothing toners use calming ingredients. Cleveland Clinic mentions aloe among the options.

• Targeted toners carry ingredients for specific concerns, such as niacinamide or licorice root for dullness, or antioxidants like vitamin C for mature skin.

What toner won’t do is shrink your pores for good. Cleveland Clinic notes that pore size is largely genetic, which makes it “pretty difficult to actually reduce the size of pores,” and in a separate guide says that while toners are thought to shrink pores, retinols are much more effective. Our guide to minimizing the look of pores covers what does help.

Does toner balance your skin’s pH?

Only a little, and your skin does most of the work itself. Healthy skin is slightly acidic: one study of 330 people estimated the natural skin surface pH at about 4.7. Washing, even with plain tap water, pushes it up for a while, but a 2018 review notes that skin recovers on its own, which can take up to several hours.

Some sources, including Cleveland Clinic, say an acidic toner can help that recovery along, and the same review says cleansing and skin care products with a pH of 4.0 to 5.0 “may be helpful.” We didn’t find a study showing that using a toner makes a meaningful difference to your skin, though. If your cleanser is gentle, the pH argument for toner is weak.

Do you need a toner?

No. In its guide to skincare product order, Cleveland Clinic files toner under “optional skin care products” and says that at a minimum you want a cleanser, then a moisturizer and sunscreen.

A toner can still earn a place if you like how it feels, or if it delivers an ingredient you want, like a gentle acid or extra hydration. Just don’t treat it as a required step.

Who should skip toner?

• Acne-prone skin. The AAD advises people with acne to avoid “astringents, toners, and exfoliants,” because they can dry the skin and make acne look worse. If you still want one, a gentle, alcohol-free formula is the safer choice.

• Rosacea. The AAD’s rosacea advice is direct: “Never use an astringent or toner.”

• Sensitive or irritated skin. Cleveland Clinic warns that toners can cause irritation and dry skin if you’re sensitive to them. If your skin is stinging or flaky, our guide to repairing a damaged skin barrier explains what to pause.

How to use toner

• Apply it after cleansing, on clean skin. Toner is water-based, so it goes on before thicker products. Our guide to skincare routine order shows where it fits.

• Use a cotton pad, your hands or a mist. Cleveland Clinic says toners can be misted straight onto the face or applied with a cotton ball or round. There’s no need to rinse it off.

• Start slowly with acids. Cleveland Clinic suggests using toner once or twice a day, but starting every other day if it contains strong acids.

• Follow with serum and moisturizer. Toner doesn’t replace your moisturizer.

• Wear sunscreen with exfoliating toners. The FDA says AHAs “may increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun and particularly the possibility of sunburn,” and recommends sun protection while using them and for a week afterward. It also advises sun protection with BHA products.

Toner vs micellar water

They do different jobs. Cleveland Clinic explains that “micellar water isn’t a toner. It’s primarily a water-based cleanser designed to remove grime.” Micellar water takes things off your skin, while a toner puts ingredients on after you’ve already cleansed.

Frequently asked questions

Are toners really necessary?

No. Cleveland Clinic lists toner as optional, and a cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen cover the basics. A toner is worth adding only if it gives you something you want, like extra hydration or a gentle acid.

Is it okay to use toner every day?

Usually, yes. Cleveland Clinic says you can use toner once or twice a day. If yours contains strong acids, start every other day and build up, and wear sunscreen during the day.

Do you apply toner on a wet or dry face?

On clean skin after cleansing. Cleveland Clinic’s advice is to use toners on clean, dry skin.

Does toner shrink pores?

Not permanently. Pore size is largely genetic, and Cleveland Clinic says that while toners are thought to shrink pores, retinols are much more effective.

What’s the difference between toner and astringent?

Astringents are usually alcohol-based and made to strip oil, which Cleveland Clinic says can be harsh and drying. Modern toners are usually gentler and focus on hydrating, soothing or mild exfoliation.