How to fade dark spots on your face

Key takeaways

• Most dark spots on the face are one of three things: sun spots, marks left after acne or irritation, or melasma. Each fades differently.

• Daily sunscreen comes first. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) recommends a tinted sunscreen with iron oxide, which also protects against visible light.

• Over-the-counter ingredients with evidence include azelaic acid, vitamin C, niacinamide, retinoids and kojic acid. Hydroquinone now requires a prescription in the US.

• Fading takes time. The AAD says a spot a few shades darker than your skin usually fades within six to 12 months once the cause is gone.

• See a dermatologist about any spot that’s new, changing, itching, bleeding or unlike the others.

What causes dark spots on your face?

Dark spots are areas where your skin has made extra melanin, the pigment that gives skin its color. On the face, they usually fall into three groups:

• Sun spots, also called age spots, liver spots or solar lentigines. DermNet describes them as flat or slightly raised, evenly colored spots on sun-exposed skin that, unlike freckles, don’t fade in winter. Mayo Clinic notes they’re very common in adults over 50.

• Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). These are the marks left after a pimple, eczema, a burn or irritation heals. They range from light brown to black and are more common, darker and longer-lasting in people with darker skin.

• Melasma. This shows up as blotchy brown or gray-brown patches, usually on both sides of the face. It’s more common in women and is linked to sun and visible light, hormones and genetics. The AAD notes it’s so common in pregnancy that it’s sometimes called the “mask of pregnancy.”

Knowing which one you have helps, because melasma tends to come back and can be worsened by harsh treatments, while sun spots and acne marks usually respond more predictably.

Start with sunscreen

Every treatment works better with sun protection, and without it, spots tend to darken again. The AAD says “effective treatment for dark spots and patches begins with sunscreen,” and recommends a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher.

It specifically suggests a tinted sunscreen containing iron oxide, because visible light also contributes to dark spots. In a 2014 randomized trial of 68 people with melasma, all using 4% hydroquinone, those given an iron oxide sunscreen improved more after eight weeks than those given a UV-only sunscreen. Our guide to mineral vs chemical sunscreen explains how the options differ.

Ingredients that can help fade dark spots

The AAD lists azelaic acid, glycolic acid, kojic acid, retinoids and vitamin C as over-the-counter options that can fade existing dark spots, and Cleveland Clinic adds niacinamide. Here’s what the research shows:

• Azelaic acid. In a 24-week trial of 329 women with melasma, 20% azelaic acid gave good or excellent results in 65%, with no significant difference from 4% hydroquinone. The 15% and 20% strengths are prescription products, and over-the-counter versions are weaker. Our list of the best azelaic acid products compares them.

• Retinoids. In a 10-month trial, prescription tretinoin lightened facial sun spots in 83% of people, compared with 29% on a placebo. Adapalene 0.1%, which is sold over the counter, lightened sun spots in 57% of people after nine months, compared with 36% on a placebo. Retinoids can cause redness and peeling at first, so our guide to retinol for beginners explains how to start.

• Vitamin C. In a small 16-week trial of women with melasma, 5% vitamin C performed less well than 4% hydroquinone on patient ratings, but with far fewer side effects. A 2023 review found it lightened pigmentation but said long-term use may be needed to see results, and more research is needed.

• Niacinamide. A 2002 study found that 5% niacinamide reduced hyperpigmentation after four weeks, and in a small 2011 melasma trial, 4% niacinamide gave good to excellent results in 44% of people, compared with 55% for 4% hydroquinone, with fewer side effects. Our list of the best niacinamide serums covers options.

• Tranexamic acid. In a 12-week trial of 60 women with melasma, a 5% topical solution worked about as well as 2% hydroquinone, with no side effects reported. Oral tranexamic acid is a prescription option a dermatologist may suggest.

• Kojic acid. It’s often combined with other ingredients, and in one trial it did less well than hydroquinone.

Many of these trials are small and focus on melasma, so treat them as a guide rather than a guarantee.

What about hydroquinone?

Hydroquinone has long been the standard skin-lightening ingredient, but it can no longer be legally sold over the counter in the US. The FDA says that under the CARES Act, over-the-counter skin-lightening products containing hydroquinone had to be removed from the market as of September 23, 2020, and it has received reports of skin rashes, facial swelling and skin discoloration (ochronosis) that may be permanent. It’s still available by prescription, so ask a dermatologist if you think you need it.

The AAD also warns that some imported skin-lightening products have been found to contain unlisted steroids or mercury.

How long does it take for dark spots to fade?

Longer than most people expect. In its guide for darker skin tones, the AAD says that once the cause stops, a spot a few shades darker than your natural skin color usually fades within six to 12 months, and deeper pigment can take years. For melasma, it says results from treatment typically take three to 12 months.

In the trials above, results were measured anywhere from four weeks to 10 months, and several ran six months or longer.

Dark spots on darker skin tones

The AAD says dark spots are one of the most common reasons people with darker skin see a dermatologist. It also warns that some treatments can irritate darker skin and make spots worse, so gentle, fragrance-free products are the safer choice, and anything that burns or stings should be stopped. Treating the acne or eczema that causes the marks is part of fading them.

For the same reason, go easy on exfoliation. Our guide to how often to exfoliate explains why strong acids and scrubs can backfire on skin that marks easily.

When to see a dermatologist

Some spots need a doctor, not a serum. The AAD’s ABCDEs of melanoma are warning signs to watch for: a spot that’s Asymmetrical, has an irregular Border, has more than one Color, has a Diameter larger than a pencil eraser (though melanomas can be smaller), or is Evolving in size, shape or color. The AAD also recommends seeing a dermatologist for any spot that’s new, different from others, changing, itching or bleeding.

A dermatologist can also offer prescription creams, oral tranexamic acid, chemical peels or laser treatment for stubborn spots. The AAD suggests seeing one if an over-the-counter melasma treatment hasn’t helped after three to six months.

Frequently asked questions

Do dark spots go away on their own?

Some do. Marks left after acne or irritation often fade on their own once the cause is gone. The AAD says a spot a few shades darker than your skin usually fades within six to 12 months, though deeper pigment can take years. Sun spots usually last unless they’re treated. Melasma sometimes fades on its own, especially after pregnancy or stopping birth control pills, but it can also last for years, so daily sun protection matters either way.

What is the fastest way to fade dark spots?

There’s no instant fix. Daily sunscreen plus a proven ingredient like azelaic acid, a retinoid or vitamin C is the most reliable approach, and results usually take a few months.

What causes dark spots on the face after pimples?

They’re a type of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation: the inflammation from the pimple triggers extra pigment as it heals. Treating the acne and wearing sunscreen helps them fade.

Can you get rid of melasma permanently?

It’s hard to cure. The AAD notes melasma often returns after time in the sun without protection, so long-term sun protection is part of managing it.

Is it safe to treat dark spots during pregnancy?

Check with your doctor first. The AAD suggests waiting until after pregnancy to treat melasma, which sometimes fades on its own after delivery.